We found the most effective way to maintain our pasture was by creating many small sections called “cells” which allow us to rotate the animals on a 1-to-2 week basis. We started by permanently fencing in a large area of pasture, and then used snow fencing to create smaller pastures. By doing this, we determined the best place and size for the sections and where we would like gates. Temporary shelters are very helpful if you plan to use pastures further from the barn.

Our property is long and skinny. Nearest to the barn, our pastures fan out from the barn creating 3 separate areas. Each area opens up into the next area in at least 2 locations. All 3 areas open into another larger pasture further back on our property. By “creative gating” Lee has provided several ways to reduce or enlarge each pasture, as needed. It also allows a no-stress way to move animals from one pasture to another.

 

During our second year, we decided that insulating the barn would make it a much nicer place for “the humans” to work in during colder temps. The insulation not only helps to keep the barn warmer in the winter but, along with the white roof, it keeps the barn much cooler during our hot summers.

In 2007 we purchased 2 acres directly across from our farm which we’ve dubbed “Beer Run” after the previous owner. We constructed a “pavilion-style” building on a small hill toward the back of the property with 4 pastures fanning out from the structure.

The building is no more than a roofed piece of land making it a wonderful, airy “summer camp” during hot weather. The open-air design works quite well for most of the year in Indiana. With the addition of lightweight corrugated panels, we are able to keep out inclement weather and the clear material allows light in. We also utilize agricultural curtains to close off the upper half of each doorway. The Beer Run building is completely “off-the-grid” and runs on solar and wind power, with a bank of batteries as back-up when needed. Thermal buckets keep water cool in the summer and keep them from freezing solid for several hours in weather below 25 degrees.

A shelter can be something as simple as a 3-sided structure. However, we don’t recommend this type of structure if you intend to have crias during chilly weather!

No matter what type of shelter you decide on, know your wind patterns and make sure the opening is facing away from the wind. When considering location, you may also want to determine if electricity can be run to this location. You will be thankful for lighting and electrical sockets during shorter days and cooler temps. Alpacas cannot see very well in the dark (similar to humans) and appreciate a night light in the barn near their pens.

Being a small farm sometimes makes it hard to quarantine an animal. The use of a temporary shed or tarp, and some lightweight pen panels makes confinement an option. There will come a time when you need to confine an animal, so keep this in mind as you plan your farm. Tarps can also be used in open pastures to create shade during hot times. Quarantine should be at least 15’ from your regular farm setup.

If you plan to use buckets for water, invest in heated buckets. We have found heated buckets with a bottom pocket to fold the cord into when not needed. Keep an eye on water consumption – a second water bucket may be needed with electrolytes added to encourage water drinking.

Learn to body-score! An animal in full fleece can lose weight underneath all that fiber and still appear normal. By body-scoring on a regular basis, you will know if your animals are keeping a healthy weight.

The belly of an alpaca is their natural thermal window and, especially older animals with less fiber coverage require insulation against the cold. Placing 6-8” of straw in each pen is sufficient to keep them warm.

During cold weather you will want to provide higher protein hay – the second or third cutting, if possible. You can enhance their pellet supplement with rolled, steamed oats or calf manna. Alfalfa hay is high in protein and is great for thin animals but don’t overfeed with alfalfa or they will become very heavy!

Those of us living in the north have much less sunshine during winter months. Supplementing with vitamin D in spring and fall (especially darker animals) will help to keep them in prime shape.

Winter is an especially hard time for newborn crias. Their temperature must be high enough to utilize the nutrients provided by the dam’s colostrum. During cold weather it is especially important that crias are kept warm during their first several days. They need ample time to regulate their body temperature so they are not expending too much energy just to stay warm. A warm, dry shelter is a must!

• Open mouth panting, nostrils flaring
• Sunken eyes
• Extreme lethargy
• Uncoordinated movements
• Seizures
• Dry mouth
• Cushed without the ability to rise
• Decreased elasticity of skin (Pinch an area where there is little fiber such as around their eyes. If it doesn’t spring right back, the animal is dehydrated and should be given electrolytes!)
• Note: extremely hot temperatures decreases fertility in males. Breeding during this time can cause defects in crias.

• The most important rule of all, make sure your animals are shorn before hot weather arrives. Imagine wearing a heavy wool sweater during 80 degree temperatures!!

• When constructing your shelter, try to include some windows or doors that can be left open for extra ventilation during nice weather. A cross-breeze makes a huge difference and will help to keep bacteria from collecting.

• Make sure to have plenty of clean water in each pasture, and one water bucket per pasture containing electrolytes.

• Provide sprinklers that shoot up about 3-4’ high to cool off your animal’s bellies. Soaking the entire animal is not a good idea and can lead to heat exhaustion.

• On very hot days, provide a plastic kiddy pool to dip their toes in. Once they have all had a turn, dump the water so they don’t soil it or drink from it.

• Provide a lower protein grass hay if pasture is not available.

• It’s very important to have shady areas to get out of the hot sun. In a pinch you can use a tarp in a strategically placed area.

• Hold off on stressful procedures - if the procedure must be done, perform it in the early morning or late evening once the sun is down and temps have fallen.

• Do not breed for hot weather births; newborns are especially susceptible to heat stress and hyperthermia.

• If you have a heat stressed or hyperthermic animal, take action immediately!! • First, take the animal's temperature. If too high (nearly 10 degrees higher than normal), call your vet!!

• Immerse the animal in cool water if possible, or hose down their stomach and legs with cool water.

• Bundle ice packs or bags of ice around them as they cush.

• Provide fans and shade.

• Provide water with electrolytes; Pedialyte is a good source of quick electrolytes. No matter the area you live in, you will have special needs for your climate. Talk to and visit nearby alpaca farms and ask how they handle your seasons.