The Miracle of Birth

The photos in the green bar are the birth of our very first cria and some more recent. If you have the luck to be there for a birth, by all means, grab your camera and document the moment!!

When your dam nears her due date, signs of

Spirit Shorn Cushed
 
impending birth are discomfort (cushing with legs off to one side, rolling, restlessness), an enlarged udder, bulging perineal region, elongated vulva, and excessive kicking. You may see some/all of these signs a couple of days/weeks prior to the actual birth, or you may see no sign at all. Unfortunately, there is no definite sign of birth. Alpacas seem to have a way of holding off until you are not around to assist!

Approximately 90-95% of births in alpacas are normal and require little assistance. It’s hard to watch them straining without stepping in so, if needed, strap yourself to a chair about 20’ away and let the dam handle the process naturally. If the dam is obviously in distress, by all means offer your assistance, or call your vet!

We highly recommend taking a neonatal course for alpacas prior to having your first cria. A must-have book for breeders is Llama and Alpaca Neonatal Care by three veterinarians: Bradford Smith, Karen Timm, and Patrick Long. We would be happy to assist you to find a neonatal course or the book!

A few months prior to your dam’s due date, you should collect several items for a basic cria care kit. These items should include

  • Several towels or rags for initial clean-up and to lie the cria on in case his dam dropped him in an unclean area

  • Hairdryer and extension cord

  • Cria coat, or baby sweater with zipper that can be put on backwards

  • Large syringe (20 to 60 cc) for warm water enema

  • Digital thermometer (cria’s temp must be between 98-102 degrees to ensure absorption of colostrum and milk)

  • 7% tincture of iodine and small vial or container for dipping naval (vet can mix iodine)

  • Scale

  • Paper & pencil to record birth date, time, temperature, weight, nursing, etc.

  • Lubricant (KY jelly or Vaseline)

  • Latex disposable gloves

  • Heavy string or dental floss (in case the umbilical cord should be tied)

  • Sharp scissors

  • Karo syrup (a dab on the tongue will give the cria a bit of energy if needed)

  • Ecolizer + C (aids in prevention of pathogenic e-coli and clostsridia)

  • Small bottles & nipples for bottle feeding, if necessary

  • Frozen goat or cow colostrum

Below are some tips and ideas that we have found effective

Quick warming techniques

  • If a cria has been on the ground for a long period and is quite chilled, place it in a garbage bag with head out and dip several times in a very warm tub of water. It’s best to perform this procedure with 2 people so the head is kept above water. Make sure the water isn’t too hot!

  • We have a pet bed warmer* on hand to stick under the cria’s bedding. It heats up in the microwave and stays warm for up to 12 hours.

  • We also keep cold weather mitten/pocket warmers* readily available which we stick inside the cria’s coat. The stomach is the thermal window and heat should always come from the bottom up. Do not place the warmer directly against the skin!

  • Do not use overhead heat lamps as your only form of heat for a hypothermic animal, but along with these other methods, they can work wonders too.

  • Keep an LP gas heater on hand to kick up the heat quickly. Take every precaution to protect the barn from fire and never leave it unattended!

  • If an enclosed room isn’t available, drape blankets over pen panels to create a draft barrier.

Bottle feeding

If you find yourself in a situation where you need to bottle feed, make sure you use a small, somewhat pliable bottle with a smaller sized nipple (a kitten or Prichard nipple works very well). Goat or cow colostrum should be kept in your freezer for these situations. Thaw the colostrum by placing the container in room temperature water. Make sure the milk is about room temperature.

  • Gently hold your hand behind the cria's head and force the nipple in if needed. Another method is to stand over the crias back with his head/neck through your legs. This method words whether the cria is cushed or standing. Often the cria is not too excited about taking the nipple because it tastes unnatural (several washings can eventually remove the unnatural taste). If the dam has no milk, or you cannot get sufficient milk into the cria, contact your vet immediately for assistance. In most cases the dam’s milk will drop within a day or so and she can take over the feedings.

  • A cria must have 10% of its weight per day in milk, and 15-20% in colder weather in order to gain weight.

  • If this is cria’s first meal, remember, colostrum is a must within the first 12 hours!!

  • If you are supplementing, feed 4-6 oz. at each feeding using ½ whole milk and ½ plain active yogurt (yogurt helps digestion) – if needed, dab Karo syrup on the nipple to mask the unnatural taste. If the dam has no milk and you are taking over feedings, they should be done approximately every 2 hours. You and the cria will work out a schedule for best feeding times.

  • Colostrum and milk mixtures should always be fed between room temperature and warmer, but never hot – never heat your bottles in the microwave!

  • Make sure to weigh the cria at least 2 times per day to determine whether you need to increase the volume of feeding. The goal should be at least ½ lb. gain per day.

Lactation stimulant

  • We use an herbal lactation stimulant for first time moms and those with a lower milk supply. Since we started using this mix, we have had dams that have released their milk a little slow, but have not had one without any milk.

  • We start topdressing with the lactation mix approximately 30 days prior to the dam’s due date. Once she has given birth, we continue feeding the mix until we feel the dam is producing to her maximum (usually another 15 to 30 days).

  • We have found that our proven dams have not required the lactation mix once their milk has dropped. However, as dams start to get on in years, they may need a little assistance as well.

  • The mix contains equal parts of Fennel seeds, Fenugreek seeds, Red Raspberry leaves, Anise seeds, and Caraway seeds.

  • We also add calf manna, rolled oats and alfalfa hay for dams that tend to be on the lean side, or during cold weather to keep weight on.

Thanks for visiting our birthing page!

 
 

This is a typical birth

The first signs of birth - nose and toes! This is a terrific shot just a few minutes into the actual birthing process which normally runs anywhere from 15 to 60 minutes.
Hanging in this position helps to drain fetal fluids out of the cria. It's normal for the dam to stand for the entire process, but sometimes she will cush or lie on her side.
Once on the ground, the dam will familiarize herself with the cria's scent and quietly hum or click to the cria. The cria is encased in a protective membrane and wears "toe caps".
Minutes after birth this cria holds himself in a cushed position. Crias start to move around very quickly after birth and will attempt to stand within minutes.

Within 30 minutes the cria is usually standing and taking a few wobbly steps. If necessary, this is a good time to move dam and cria to a smaller, more private space to allow them time bond with each other. It also makes it easier for cria to find the udder. Keep them as close to their herd as possible so the dam does not stress out.

 

Photos of the placenta being delivered

 
The placenta is just starting to present itself
Generally the placenta will present within a few hours of birth and take about the same amount of time.
Almost out!
Check the placenta for tears or excessive bleeding.
Both placentas shown are pink and healthy.
 

We hope these pictures and tips have helped! Obviously there is much more to learn than we have outlined, but this gives you a good idea what to expect when your first cria arrives.

 

Liz & Lee Clark - northern Indiana - contact us at info@turkeycreekalpacas.com